Papagallos on the way to Costa Rica

Papagallos are not to be taken lightly, and contrary to some of the information we've read in the guides it blows alot harder than 25 knots.
I've already posted information on our first attempt to enter Cost Rica, and how we were basically re-routed to Nicaragua.
Before setting off for Costa Rica we consulted our usual source of weather through our SSB radio, knowing that we would get a bit of wind for a day or so. We got alot more than we expected, which one would think would make our passage fast - no so in this case. We reached Costa Rica's border after dark and made our way into Bahia Santa Elena using unreliable charts and radar. Thank God we got in. We anchored as close to shore as was safe which put us into the wind shier, so the 30 - 40 knot gusts mostly went over us. ( By the way our guide books warn us not to pull into any of the bays north of Playa del Coco which is the first port of entry. We left Bahia Santa Elena with north east winds blowing us along at almost 4 knots before we even put a sail up. We did put up our tiny stay sail and had a pretty brisk sail to Potrero Grande, a fairly wide open bay where we learned that our anchor when properly deployed does a great job of holding us in place.
The next morning we took off again expecting to have a 4 - 5 hour sail to Playa del Coco. We tried to sail in as close to land as possible and the papagallo wind was really blowing now. We recorded gusts of 47 knots and the winds were blowing us offshore, which we didn't want to experience again, so we motored, mostly on our ear, with waves hitting us on our side pushing our gunnels right under water - which for Moondancer is quite something. We arrived in Playa del Coco late afternoon, attempted to clear in with the Port Captain.
Apparently the Port Captain doesn't work on Friday afternoon, or Saturday or Sunday. This is Monday and we have finally started our clearing in process, which does seem to be going quite well. We have an appointment with Customs this afternoon which should finalize the procedure.

If this all seems quite negative - I'm sorry, but that's the mood I'm in. We think that maybe its time to slow down a little. We have some information of what to expect of the Gulf of Panama, (which is likely to be more of the same), so we are going to take a little more time travelling through Costa Rica. We need to improve the balance, its leaning a little too heavily to the tough side and less of the fun side.

On a more positive note - Saturday afternoon, as we were being blown around our anchor by more big gusts of wind, and had decided to take shelter down below, I looked out of one of our portlights and noticed a man who appeared to be struggling in a plastic kyak - the lying down model, he didn't look very happy. I went up on deck and asked if he was coping alright with the wind - first he said yes, so I went back below and told Tony that some bloody idiot was out there in a kyak. Tony came up and we asked him again if he needed to rest. He decided he did need to rest and found his way alongside. We tied him up and asked him aboard to rest. He declined but we chatted for awhile waiting for the gusts to subside enough for him to make a break for shore. It didn't come, but we did get to know him a little - a very nice gentleman who spoke perfect English, Rodrigo. When it was apparent it was not going to be possible for him to paddle back to shore, Tony towed him back with the dinghy. Rodrigo was very grateful, and so were his family, who awaited him onshore. They invited us to dinner that day, which Tony refused, as we did not expect any reward to this small good deed.

The next day we went ashore for a walk and we saw Rodrigo again, who repeated the invitation. This time we accepted. They met us on the shore at 6.00pm and took us back to a beautiful apartment in town which is owned by Rodrigo's "number 1 son-in-law" Pedro and his wife Gabriella. We had a wonderful evening, a great dinner cooked by Lorena, Rodrigo's wife, the company of 3 of Rodrigo's daughters, Maria, Carolina, Gabriella, and "number 2 son-in-law" Roberto, plus 5 gorgeous grandchildren who performed for us after dinner.
The hospitality extended to us - total strangers - from this generous family was perfectly timed and gratefully accepted. A super introduction to what we know will be a lovely country.

Comments

Anonymous said…
Keep you chin up .... Now you and Tony are up there with the other famous sailors Lynn and Larry Pardy and Beth Leonard & Evans Starzinger. They all had terrible experiences with the papagayo winds! but still enjoyed the country other than the theft. I sent you an e-mail. Keep your stuff locked up
Take Care Dick & Anne
Anonymous said…
Theese iz Capt Pedro reporting. Ahhh, the Papagayo, Chabascos, Cape Doctor, Pampero, Freemantle Doctor, Levante, Bora, Charada, Squamish.............
Youse iz braver than Capt Pedro!!!!
Youre freend,
Captn Pedro

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